Installing windows and sliding door

       Before we could begin installing our sliding glass windows, we had to check exactly where to place them within their frames. Our instructions from the kit home company informed us that to install the windows we should check the pre-cut cladding fits the window at one end of the house, and then work our way to the other end of the house so the other windows would fit the pre-cut cladding. We pulled the dozens of sheets of cladding off the pile, carefully and often only one at a time, as many of them are seven metres long and quite heavy. We moved them to a new pile nearby, and measured each different lengths and took notes of how many of each length there were.

       None of the sheets of cladding were pre-cut. This meant that we could place the windows in the frames as we chose. There is a gap of almost 10mm around each side between the window and the frames, so they required packers. We looked around for some pieces of wood around 10mm thick and cut them into suitable pieces, about 80mm long and the width didn't matter. We then discovered that a difference of only 1mm made a very big difference when it came to putting a 95mm wide piece of wood into a slot which was only 85mm wide.

       So we looked around for some more wood which we cut into packers which were about 5mm thick and 2mm thick. Our local tip has a section where people chuck their old timber into a big pile, so it is a great place to obtain scraps of timber for projects. The benefits of this are low prices, recycling of second hand items, and the closeness of the locality saves on petrol (saving money and the environment).

       We started by installing the smallest window first, which was the bathroom. We placed some packers underneath the window and made sure it was level before screwing it down. We then placed packers into the sides and screwed them in. We did not put packers in the top as that can bow the window. The next size up windows were all placed in a similar manner, and it was a fairly easy job. We tied same rope around the outside of the window frames as extra security in case the window tried to fall out. These windows are bushfire rated for BAL 29 and would be quite expensive to replace.

       At one stage work was held up as we tried to find out the best way to remove paper wasp nests. Apparently these guys give a very nasty sting, so we wanted to avoid that us much as possible. The best method we discovered was to use a can of flammable propellant (deodorant, hairspray, etc.) with a lighter to create a flame thrower. This singes their wings so that they cannot fly, and then when they fall to the ground they can be killed. There are still some nests which we have been unable to remove yet, but thankfully we haven't been stung so far.

       The largest window and the glass sliding door were far too heavy for the two of us to lift on our own, so we asked one of our neighbours to come and help us out. A couple of hours work and these were also installed. Thank you so much! Before installing the door the bottom of the metal framed was cut through on both sides and removed. There did not need to be packers under the door, but otherwise the installation method was the same.

       We have already had insects and birds getting stuck in the windows, even though the walls are not clad and they could easily fly around! I guess they have never encountered such a strange material as glass before and have trouble understanding it. The presence of the door creates a surprising difference to the sense of 'inside' and 'outside'. It feels quite annoying to have to open the door in order to enter the house, and yet it does create a much warmer environ when you are standing inside and it cuts out the wind chill. I had to get a door mat and put it outside the door, as I suddenly felt like walking 'inside' with dirty boots was just wrong. Of course it was just a mental difference, physically everything else was just the same.

       The next stage is to screw the wall cladding on, with insulation underneath it.

Video of Roof Installation

Roof Ridge Cap Finished

A few smaller jobs have been completed since the big roof finish, not as exciting but still very necessary and important. The insulation was taped together on the inside, so that each section is joined without gaps to let the heat in. Surprisingly a very large amount of heat was sneaking through where the insulation was joined, even though there was a 100mm overlap. The special insulation tape does a fantastic job of cutting most of this heat out. This job involved climbing up a ladder dozens of times to reach the many joins, with about 8 pieces of insulation on each side and 5 lengths for each join to fit inbetween the roof purlins.

Next we installed some bushfire mesh underneath the ridge cap, wedged between the roof sheets and the insulation underneath it. You can't really see it in this photo, but you can see some of the insulation taping.

The installation of the mesh means that we are fulfilling the bushfire regulations by not having any gaps smaller than 2mm which may allow the entrance of embers in the event of a bushfire.

Then we installed the ridge cap on the roof. First lengths of insulation were taped to the ridge cap, and the roof was swept clean.

Then the ridge cap was screwed to the roof. There were two lengths of ridge cap, each 5.5 metres long.

With roof length of 10 metres and an overhang of about 35mm on each end, that gives plenty of overlap in the middle. After the screws were done, they were all covered in silicone to ensure waterproofing.

 Another job was installing bushfire mesh in the verandah gutter. This mesh has about 7mm squares which will greatly reduce the amount of leaf litter which gets stuck in the gutter. This helps reduce bushfire risk at the same time as helping ensure cleaner water, and means that we have to get up and clean the gutters much less often.

I also finished the screws on the decking. We had bought some screws from the store which is 1 ½ hours drive away, but it turned out that either they didn’t give me the 140 screws which I asked for, or that despite my many calculations and recounts, 140 still wasn’t enough. So I went back to the store and bought a bunch more, but when I checked them, it turned out that they had sold me the wrong screws – they were too short.

So third trip to buy screws for the decking WHICH SHOULD HAVE BEEN SUPPLIED BY THE KIT HOME COMPANY IN THE FIRST PLACE, we are advised that we have been given the wrong screws from the kit home company all along. We were shown a pack of the same kind of screws which says on the back ‘Not Recommended for Fixing Wood Decking to Metal Joists’. Which is exactly what we are using it for. Apparently because of the way that wood and metal expand and contract at different rates with change of temperature, that creates a tendency for the screws to shear and break. It turns out that the correct type of screws are only available in very large packs which cost hundreds of dollars, so we figured that we may as well finish the job with the same screws we have been using all along.

Next step is to put the windows and walls on. It has been raining for the last week, so the country lore that the rainy season starts on Australia Day might be true.

Second Side of Roof Finished

     Finally our first day of decent weather, and the boys finished off the second side of the roof.

     We still have to turn up the end of the sheets at the top, and put in some kind of bushfire protection under the ridge cap when we put that on to seal the gaps, but it's looking pretty amazing.

Roof

Significant progress has been made on the roof during the christmas holidays, due to the wonderful help of visiting family. Thanks so much guys!

Since the last post I spent several mornings putting up the 10 fascia brackets. First one end, then the other, then a string-line between them to make sure all the ones in the middle are in a straight line.

I found this a difficult and annoying job as the brackets tended to move while I was trying to drill the screws in, despite the clamp holding it in place. I learned as I went though, and the later brackets were done much more quickly than the first.

After this was done, the boys put up the first gutter which was a bit tricky as it bends very easily. Some supports were taped to it and then it was lifted up with rope and the use of two ladders. The gutter is attached with the use of suspension clips and gutter straps.

Then the boys put the fascia board on. This was done in two halves with the middle joined by an extra support piece, riveted together, the same as the fascia board on the other side of the house. Then the gutter was put up using the same method as the first side with supports and ropes.

Next the roof was started. First the insulation was cut to length and taped into place, and then a roof sheet was placed over the top and screwed in. The same was repeated for the other side.

Also the roof strapping was tensioned up while working up in the roof. Here you can see the underneath with the roof strapping, the insulation which is 135cm wide, and two sheets of Colorbond – each 84cm wide.

A couple more days of dodging rain and the bottom side of the house is nearing completion. Christmas day we had 70mm of rain in only a couple of hours, so it seems the wet season has come early!!!